How to sew an invisible seam for a crochet garment

The other day, while finishing a tank top I made for myself, it came to me that not everyone, and especially new crocheters, know how to sew a garment together. So ,while I was at it, I decided to take some pictures and show you how it's done....

Before starting, you should know that you'll be sewing as if you were crocheting in a" back loop only" and "front loop only "style. If you're new to crochet, that means you will only pick up half the stitch with your yarn needle (usually you'd do this with your hook). Hopefully, this will be clear following my photos. Why sew, instead of crochet? Because, even if you use the flat braid method, you'll still get a ridge. If you follow these steps, you should not be able to see the seam.

If you are planning on blocking, it's better to block the individual sides before sewing them together. You should use a grid or measuring tape when doing this, because you don't want one side to be blocked bigger than the other! I didn't block my top, because it's cotton and I know I won't have the patience to re-block every time I wash it, since I plan on wearing it often. I always leave long tails when crocheting and sewing (if I haven't made a knot). This is useful for putting the right or wrong sides together as well as for making knots. I should tell you, that I usually weave in the ends and do not knot when I crochet, but when making a garment, espescially one that will be thrown in the washing machine, it is absolutely necessary to make knots. You  wouldn't want hours of work to come apart at the seems would you? So, when I'm finished, I either make a surgeon's knot, or a triple knot and pull as tight as possible, then cut as close as possible to the knot. If you've made the knot correctly, this will not pull your work. If you have a little bit of yarn sticking out, you can put a little clear nailpolish on it to prevent from fraying, but you should cut as close as possible, like I said. I have used yellow yarn for better visibility but, obviously, you'll use the same yarn you used for your garment.

One last note: If you're sewing a seam for a very lightweight garment, you can choose to do only the "back loop only" part and skip the front. When you do both sides, the seam is heavier, but has a stronger hold, because you've worked it twice. If you have a lace weight garment, doing only the back side is better because the seam will stay light and is absolutesly invisible. I do recommend doing both sides in the shoulder seams, because there is more stress in that area when the garment is worn, but you may not even need it there if it's a delicate one. I have worked both sides on my top.
The photo tutorial shows how to do the side seams, but after lining up your work, you should start at the shoulders, using the same technique.

Here we go.......

First, you'll need to place one side right side up and the other, on top, right side down. Aline the sides so that they match perfectly, and place stitch markers along both sides ( I use paper clips. A trick I learned from futuregirl )

As you can see, I didn't put the markers through the actual stitches, but through the spaces instead. This makes it easy to remove them, but is only possible if you have done an openwork garment. Otherwise, put them through the stitches.

Now measure your yarn and cut. Two and a half lengths of  your seam is usually enough ( one and a half if you're only working one side). Thread you needle, do not make any knots.

Start at the bottom, leaving a long tail of yarn and make a circle, which is an imitation of a crochet stitch.

The above photo is solely to demonstrate how you will be sewing ; through the back loop of the stitch.

Now,  with your hand underneath, hold both sides, so that your stitches are almost touching, and run your needle through the back loop only (i.e. the one on the wrong side, which is also closest to you)and pull through.As you complete each stitch, pull so that it's snug, but not too tight, or you will ruin the invisible seam.

You will be sewing in a serpentine or S fashion. Notice that I have not pulled my stitches. This is only so that you can clearly see them, but yours will be closed as you work.Continue sewing like this all the way up the sides.

In the photo above, I've turned my work to show you how the seam is invisible on the other side. If you have chosen to do only one side,when you get to the top, go back down a stitch or two and tightly knot your thread to a stitch. Cut and go back down to where you started. Thread your needle with the tail, work up a stitch and knot as before,cut and go on to the other seam. If you want to do the other side, proceed as follows:
Turn your work over to the right side, run the thread through as shown below, picking up the front loop only (which is still the closest one to you)

Now, sew through as before, working through every front loop only, until you get back to the bottom, turn your work again and bring the neddle to the back and up a stitch. Now bring the tail up a stitch and make a secure knot using the two ends. (This is not shown)  Pull as tight as possible and cut as close as possible.
Now you're ready to sew the other side seam.

Above I've shown the finished seam and left my thread aligned, so that you can see where I've ended.

Here it is on me, the seem is almost aligned with the one on the white one underneath.

Invisible! Once you finished your seams, you're ready to do the edging and then your project will be complete!

I hope this tutorial has helped you. As always if you have any questions, need help, or have found an error, let me know. I'll be glad to help! :)

Snowflakes

Well, it's winter and we haven't seen any snow this year, so I'm hanging up these gorgeous flakes I made last year as a good omen. The pictures really don't do them justice! There are many free patterns ravelry on and I also used this wonderful  book . I've made several and they look really beautiful if you hang them on nylon fishing or jewelery line in the windows. I'd like to share how I blocked them with you. There are different methods; starching, sugar/water (which tends to turn yellow after awhile) or glue/ water which I prefer.

You will need:
* A corkboard

• Stainless steel pins (they must be stainless so that they don’t rust!)
  
• a thimble
  
• small pliers
  

plastic document covers

• a blocking chart, I’ve made three to cover the whole board. You can make these yourself by using a ruler and making three lines that cross in the middle.
  
• a solution of 1/2 craft, Elmer’s or vinylic glue and 1/2 water. Make as little or as much as you need for your snowflakes.
  

glitter ,if desired

First, draw your chart and fit it in the plastic cover. You’ll need one chart for each flake. Then with pins or tacks secure the plastic covered chart to the cork board.

If you want glitter on both sides of the flake, sprinkle a little on the chart before you put the flake down.

Next, mix the glue and water.
Then, take one snowflake and completely immerse in mixture, get your fingers in there, it’s a messy job,but someone’s gotta do it!

Squeeze out the excess mixture, blot with an old towel and place on top of the plastic covered chart. Now, carefully open completely and, starting at the top, place pins all along the outside of the flake. Use a thimble to push the pins or you fingers will hurt! Then place pins on the inside of flake, and especially anywhere there are picots etc…
Once you are finished with the pins, sprinkle glitter evenly.

 (sorry this picture is so dark!)
Let dry 24 hours and carefully remove the pins with the pliers,again, to save those precious fingers! Voilà! Your beautiful snowflakes will hang all winter long!

Change of Season (and crafts to go with it!)

Although I was born in Summer, my favorite seasons are Spring and Fall. Why? Because I love the change of color, and luckily, here there's a lot of it!  It's true, Fall officially started a few weeks back, but we had sort of an Indian Summer and so the leaves are really beautiful shades of yellow red and brown right now. The best time to collect and press them, so that's what I did!

The truth is, I was planning on making this last year, but never got around to it, so it was haunting me. Although it takes a couple of days to make (because of drying time) it is SO worth it and the pictures really don't do it justice. I love to change the decorations in the house according to the season and this fits perfectly, it would also make a nice centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table, although I've already made something else. So, go gather some leaves, place them flat in between two (or more) sheets of newspaper, or paper towel, then place them on a flat surface, cover with more paper and put some heavy books on them so that they're completely covered. Leave them like that for several days (mine were there a week). When they're nice and dry and flat, you're ready to start.

You'll need:
rice paper for decoupage, I like voile(the thin stuff), but thicker is okay, however, it will be more opaque.
a mixture of craft of Elmer's glue and water.60/40 is about right, but I just play it by ear (or eye, if your speaking Italian ) It's best if you make it up in a closeable jar, so you can save it between drying times.
2 medium sized paint brushes
Leaves
Varnish (optional)
Hurricane or glass container or jar
an Exacto or craft knife

First, tear your rice paper into fairly big pieces, as in the top photo. The second photo shows a straight edge, you DON'T want that, or the seem is likely to show. Line your work surface with a plastic table cloth or something non-stick.  Place the paper aside and paint the glue mixture onto the hurricane like so:

Then carefully place your rice paper onto the glass, slightly overlapping it so that there are no holes. Cover the entire jar and if you can't fit the paper eveny to the top seem, don't worry, just let it stick out over the edge. Once it's completely covered, give it another paint-over with the glue mixture, this will make sure that it's wet enough so that the overlapping  doesn't show when it's dry. DO NOT overdo it though or the paper will tear.Let dry for a couple of hours.
When it's dry, take an exacto knife and trim the edge.

Now, repaint the whole thing with the glue mix and then, one at a time, paint the back of the leaves and place them where you want them to go. Be patient and careful, so that they don't break. Hold them a second until they stick and paint over the top too.

Unfortunately, my batteries died here so I didn't get of a pic of the leaves being placed, but you get the idea....
Once you have finished covering the glass, paint over and let it dry for several hours or over night. When it was dry I painted it again because some of the leaves weren't flat. If your stems stick out, you can cut them at the base of the leaf and glue them on seperately, as close as possible. When it's completely dry, add a coat or two of varnish to protect it. That's it! A beautiful fall hurricane. I hope you liked the tutorial.

Tubular Flounce Cowl or Boa Scarf tutorial

Well, here it goes! Wish me luck on my first photo tutorial! I made another cowl with flounce and decided to try a tubular version with this lovely, wool bordered, flounce. It was originally supposed to be a Boa scarf, but, after 2 skeins, I decided to make a cowl instead. This is because since I paid €4 a skein, it was getting a bit expensive and when I sell it, I certainly wouldn't be able to raise the price to cover the cost, unless my work was free! I think it came out well as a cowl, too.

A note before starting: This is easy, but time consuming. If you've never used flounce before, it takes awhile to get used to, so if your looking for a quick project, this probably isn't it. Crochet loosely, flounce is not friendly to tight stitches. Also, be sure to mark the first stitch in each round. I use a paper clip (thank you futuregirl) it's easy to close too! After each round, count your stitches, It's easy to add in extras but if you check each round before starting a new one, you can rip a small amount.

This pattern was designed by me so please do not sell any part of it, or take credit for the pattern and photos. You may share this pattern with others free of charge. As for the items you make using it, you may sell them, but please refer people to my blog if they ask about it.

Now to work!

You'll need:  a K hook(6.5 mm), stitch marker,tapestry needle, 55 yards (50 meters) of flounce for the cowl  or 110 yards (100 meters) for a scarf, patience(lol)

All terms in this pattern are American, for British, please adapt. This is worked in dc, but tr crochet works up nicely too. If you choose tr remember to ch 4.

Since you can't make a regular starting knot, here's what you do ; open your flounce and, leaving about an inch tail (2cm), insert your hook inot the middle of the flounce net, then, using about1/3 of the flounce(stick your hook through),yarn over and pull through. this is considered your knot. Do not count as a stitch.

Now, doing the same thing, ch 9. Please open your flounce as you go, it makes it easier to work with. Then join in a circle with the 9th stitch from hook (the first you made),  ch 3 (or 4 for treble)

Now, dc around until you get to the ch3.dc into the 3rd ch of ch3 and place your stitch marker here (this is your first stitch of the secound round). This is not something you can normally do in crochet, because you would see the gap, and it would look messy, but with flounce you can,because it's covered by the ruffles. If you would like to be more precise, you could sl st at the end of the round,ch 3(or 4) and continue on.

Continue working in spirals until desired length is reached.
If you're making the cowl, make it just a little roomy around the neck.

It looks something like this as you're going along.

 Now for fastening off. When you've completed the last stitch of the round, put your hook through the first, and YO with ALL of the flounce. Now sl st.

Now YO again with ALL the flounce and pull through, making a knot. Weave in end. I also threaded a tapestry needle and went down a row and knotted around two stitches for safety,then cut closely. The great thing is you can't see the knots because they're hidden by the ruffles! Sew in and knot tail at other end.

If you're making the cowl, you will need to make a chain using all the flounce, about one and a half times your cowl. On the last chain,take out your hook and insert a tunisian hook, or the longest hook you have into the middle of the cowl,squish it down as far as possible onto the hook, insert the hook into the last chain you made, pull yarn tight around hook and CAREFULLY pull hook and chain through the cowl. It may take a couple of tries to get it through. (Don't forget to leave out a peace at the other end!) Knot off both ends of string and cut!

That's it! Now you'll be warm and beautiful!

I hope you enjoy the pattern, if you have any questions or problems, feel free to contact me by leaving a comment or on ravelry.